The second "dormant passion" is surfing. And for that, I received All for a Few Perfect Waves, The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora. I dunno' where to start about him, so I'll just quote Tolkien and leave you to substitute the name...
Gandalf! If you had heard only a quarter of what I have heard about him, and I have only heard very little of all there is to hear, you would be prepared for any sort of remarkable tale. Tales and adventures sprouted up all over the place wherever he went, in the most extraordinary fashion.
It's true. The guy was a legend. Like brewing, I haven't paddled out on one of my four boards in years. Maybe I'll get another spark...
So I can't wait to dig in - once I finish my current book.
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